Log in

No account? Create an account

Previous Entry | Next Entry

what brown did for me

I finally got my Albion Next Gen Crecy longsword by UPS yesterday around 2:30.  I saw that it was delivered on their website, so I rode my bike home through a god-awful storm to bring the box inside.  I was soaked well from it.  The sword was much shorter and lighter than I thought it would be.  It's only around 44 inches, which is much shorter than my NSA waster is, so I'll have to get used to that.  There were some kind of scuff/scratches near the center of balance, so I buffed with some fine steel wool, and the rust is out of it but the black marks are still there for now.  The blade was much less sharp than I thought it would be as well.  I could run my hand up and down the blade with impunity.  I did the same with some pressure and finally elicited a slice on my finger, shallow enough not to draw blood. 

I took it outside and attempted to cut one of those flimsy grass mats, but it wouldn't cut past a laceration on the outer layer, no matter what orientation I put it in.  These mats aren't wound tightly though, it could be that.  I took a half-gallon milk jug out, filled it with water and stood it on my short pell, and cut at it, and on the first cut I very cleanly clipped off the top 1/2 to 1 inch, at the thick part of the opening.  The second cut sliced it in half, not as cleanly but still pretty good.  I believe my edge alignment needs some practice.  However when empty the bottom part could not be cut, even vertically sitting on a foam pad.  I am wondering if the blade isn't sharp enough, although I admit I have little reference to go by.  If the weather permits I will be practicing a lot more, with some beef roasts and other bottles, and again with the mats if I can.  I need to do more of the cutting to get a feel for if the blade needs to be sent back for sharpening or not.

 Visually the sword is very pretty, with a very tight black leather grip (it stinks, but new leather tends to sometimes) and nicely polished to give a wire-wheeled look.  There are several small eccentricities/assymetries, which I believe are introduced deliberately.  The blade looks to have a mean thrusting tip, but I belive it has enough mass to effectively cut on some resistive targets (as long as the blade proves sharp enough).  I am pleased with the sword (and I think all reservations will be laid to rest once I know either now or after I get the blade keened that this sword is up for the extensive test-cutting I will use it for).  Pictures from the maker are here.


( 4 comments — Leave a comment )
Oct. 17th, 2006 04:13 pm (UTC)
from all the ones I've had like that,the little explanation paper in the boxes told of the use of the swords. those kinds were made for stabbing and ocassionally holding at the opposite end to swing like a sledge hammer and while holding correctly, using the ball on the end to strike objects. thats why they were never razor sharp,not made so much cutting.
Oct. 17th, 2006 05:46 pm (UTC)
This is a type XVIa sword, which has a tip well suited for thrusting, but still has enough mass near the center of percussion for cutting well. As far as striking with the crossguard ('mortshlag') and pommel-striking, that is definitely doable with this sword (as with most longswords). It shouldn't be razor sharp, definitely, but I expected it to be sharper than it is. But this type of sword is definitely made for cutting first and foremost, so if I can't get good clean cuts with it in the next few days I'll send it back for sharpening.
Oct. 18th, 2006 03:50 am (UTC)
I'd imagine you could put a better edge on it but I would'nt go razor sharp as it might lead to the edge chipping. It depends on what metal its made from also.
Oct. 18th, 2006 05:25 am (UTC)
I definitely don't want to sharpen it myself, although I have a protocol on doing so. I paid for the maintenance plan so screw it I'll let them do it, they're probably a lot better at it than I could be. Yea I'm going to ask them to get a good feel of it and determine themselves how sharp to make it, but I'll let 'em know that I want it sharper than it is, and that I'm using it almost exclusively for test cutting, so going on that they should be able to figure it out. Their metal is carbon steel ( somewhat high carbon conten IIRC) so it should be able to take most any angle edge, but I only want a moderate edge, in the range of historical sharpness with the ability to cut reasonable targets. I'll end up writing a note and shipping it with the blade to make sure they know what I want.
( 4 comments — Leave a comment )